Sunday, October 26, 2008

Indecent Expatriates

We have a lovely new Canadian babysitter named Chanel, which means later-evening outings have once again become a possiblity for Billy and me.

Less eager to explore nightlife than we were to have a social life, I organized a reservation at a Mexican restaurant in Dubai for the other new hires and their partners. Per the usual, since this is a restaurant serving alcohol, we found it on the premises of a hotel, precisely on the 8th floor. Not all of the bars are tucked away in high-rises, but many of them are, and so the evening started with the ilicit feeling of going to a secret place. Since the drinking & driving laws are harsh in this country, i.e. one drop lands you in jail, I was drinking Perrier while Billy and most of the others had margaritas and Corona Extra. Though we were tired and it was late, the single and childless folks coerced us into following them to a night spot called 'the lodge'.

Given the name The Lodge, we had fireplaces and deer heads in mind, and visions of ski lodges with warm after dinner drinks. But as we got closer to the venue and watched the folks piling out of taxis on the curb, it became clear this was to be a night of short skirts, high heels and yes > plaid school-girl outfits. At first we were thinking gosh, we must be really out of touch to NOT know that plaid jumpers had gained popularity. But as the night progressed, and we got past the underaged local boys hanging out at the velvet rope just to look and whistle, and moved through the bouncers to find our names on the VIP list and into the circular open air dance pit, we learned that this was the night's theme - '80's school girl night'.

I must admit that dancing in the middle of a taxi-filled city of highrises, in the open air and to the music of my youth proved to be so much more exhilirating than Hot Toddies by a fire would have been. But I also must admit that I wondered over the impression we were giving to the teen hangers-on at the velvet rope, guys whose sisters aren't allowed out after dark, and whose families don't wear western clothes or even dance for that matter.

But we carried on, sweaty indecent dancing expatriates, many of us dressed indecently even by western standards, and made our plans to find the off-license liquor seller the following weekend.

3 comments:

Jill Swick said...

So was this Mexican place better than the other one? Did they get the beans right? I love the fact that your nanny's name is Chanel!!! Does she design handbags???
XOXO-
Jill

Ann Howicz said...

So what did you wear?????
Ann

Trevor said...

"But I also must admit that I wondered over the impression we were giving to the teen hangers-on at the velvet rope, guys whose sisters aren't allowed out after dark, and whose families don't wear western clothes or even dance for that matter."

This was a really interesting post. My take on it is that in *any* country where *any* religion is imposed on the citizens, about 10% are true believers, 30% are nominal believers, and the other 60% just go along with everything, keeping up appearances of being religious, and trying to not to make waves and get themselves in trouble, while not really buying in - or maybe buying in to some things but not everything.

Cromwell's attempt at imposing Puritan Christianity on England demonstrated well that, while a government can impose a religion or set of beliefs/behaviors on a country, it can't change people's hearts, only their external behaviors. A small percentage of the population will buy in, but the vast majority just goes along with it, without really ever buying in. Sometimes the majority even chafes against the impositions.

So it's no surprise to me that young guys would gather at this club to watch the spectacle. At some level, they're only going along with their society's muslim norms because of expedience, not because they really believe *everything*.

And - human nature - we're often so good at compartmentalizing things: it's always easy to expect others to tow the line (your sisters or other women-folk, etc.), but somehow feel that that you're entitled to some exceptions.

So, even though Emirati society is strictly Islamic, I would assume that 60% of the people you interact with don't really buy into everything, even while keeping up the appearances of doing so.

Ooops, sorry: this got a bit long!